Broken headphone cable
1. There is a response at the plug of the moving earphone, indicating that the disconnection is here. Cut off the headphone wires from here, then peel off the wires to find the broken parts, and cut the cores neatly. There are four lines: the left channel, the left channel, the right channel and the right channel. They are distinguished by color. The left and right channels of the plug are connected together.
Headphone wires are coated with insulating paint, so it can not be measured directly by meter. Tin should be coated on the wire head first. The specific operation method is to apply rosin or solder paste on the line first, and then hot with tin-dipped soldering iron until the line is soaked by solder. Then it's better to take apart the earphone case and measure the four wires with a meter to check the other broken wires.
If this is the only break point that is normally indicated. Then strip the soft sleeve off the earphone head and put it on the line. Cut the hard plastic behind the plug with a knife blade to expose the solder joint. Then weld the wires one by one. Generally, two ground welds are in the thickest part, the right channel is in the middle, and the left channel is in the finest part. Generally, the two yellow lines are the ground line, the red line is the right channel, and the green line is the left channel. There are exceptions, of course. It's better to take apart the unit and measure it. After welding, check to prevent two or two short circuits. Then plug it into the machine and try it. Use a tune you are familiar with.
If the opposite is true, replace the left and right wires (the middle and the finest weld lines) and then test and confirm them and bandage them. First, wrap a few laps with white medical adhesive tape. Thickness should be able to be stuffed into the soft sleeve. Take care to tie the thread and head together. Then soak the tape with 502 glue to make it stronger. At this time, you can use a vise to smooth the place where the tape is wrapped. Then coat it with 704 glue and stuff it into a soft sleeve. It's totally impossible to see how the craftsmanship works. It can be used after the glue is dried.
2. Break at the bifurcation of the headphone wire: The processing method is the same as the checking method at the plug. When the headphone is silent, push the line intermittently. You can confirm that the line is broken here. If it's a silent one, if it's pulled out by accident, then don't do unnecessary trouble. Just cut the bad one.
If it takes a long time, cut both. Because one of them has a problem for a long time, so the other one is not far away. It's best to repair it thoroughly at one time. Cut off the headphone cable from the opening point and strip it a little. Find the location of the broken line and cut it neatly. Then put a heat shrinkable sleeve on the broken line and twist the same color thread. Then apply some rosin or solder paste and iron with solder dipped iron until the solder soaks into the wire. Insulate with a little tape. Then paint 502 sets of heat shrinkable tubes on both ends of the line, blow them with a hot air gun or bake them with a lighter. After the shrinkage of the heat-shrinkable pipe 502, the line skin at both ends of the breakpoint and the heat-shrinkable pipe are glued together. It doesn't matter if you pull hard. For SONY with plastic cylinders, breakpoints can be hidden in plastic cylinders, so that no scars can be seen.
3. Outgoing part of headphone unit: Remove the headphone shell (refer to the method of removing the shell in the first part), and iron the wire from the unit with a soldering iron. Draw the line long enough to reveal the broken part and cut off the end. Then strip a piece of thread. Tin plating on the wire head (refer to Part 2, Question 3, Point 2) and then solder to the unit. When welding wire, attention should be paid to distinguishing polarity. Generally, the output line (red, green or blue, etc.) is connected to the position with marked points, while the ground line (usually yellow) is connected to the position without points. Test after welding. Finally, the shell can be installed. This process often shortens the original headphone cable. The solution is to change the line from the bifurcation or take off the knot at the bifurcation and pull the line down a little, then tie it again with a heat shrinkable tube or rope. If two lines are unequal in length, both lines can be dealt with.
The treatment of earphone wire cracking and the method of changing wires The partial cracking of earphone wire can be dealt with by heat shrinkable tube. That is to remove the earphone unit, open the earphone shell first, and then iron the wire down with soldering iron, so that the earphone wire can be easily pulled out. Note that the left and right vocal tracts are best marked before extraction. Then cut a suitable heat-shrinkable tube and put it on. Apply a little 502 glue to the cracked area. Then use a hot air gun or lighter to bake and tighten the heat-shrinkable tube. (For disassembly and installation, please refer to the preceding paragraph.) I don't think I need to say much about the method of wire change.
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